| Selecting
the camera image resolution
|
Cameras normally have the facility to change the quality
setting or resolution for taking pictures. The best quality
setting is a "RAW" (e.g. TIFF, bmp) format which has no
compression applied by the camera. This format produces large
image file sizes and means fewer images can be stored on memory
cards.
The next setting is often a FINE setting. This uses the full camera resolution but has a small amount of compression applied but again file sizes can be quite large. There is always a NORMAL setting which again uses the full camera resolution with a little more compression applied. This is the setting that I have found most suitable for general use, producing image file sizes of around 1 Mb. with a 4 mega pixel camera. I have tried comparing big enlargements at the NORMAL, FINE and RAW settings and find any difference in quality negligible. This comparison was carried out with a Nikon Coolpix 950 camera. There are also lower resolution settings that both reduce the camera resolution and apply compression. These are not recommended for photographic printing. However, they can be useful for quantity rather than quality and where they are used for email or web pages. |
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| Increasing flash power | The built in flash provided on compact cameras are generally under powered for taking groups of people in a normal room. Also many do not have a flash shoe provided or facilities for adding an auto controlled external flash gun. To work round this one I use a slave photo sensor that triggers from the built in camera flash and this in turn fires an auxiliary flashgun. Both the sensor and flashgun are mounted on the same bracket. This seems to work well, there are no wires dangling around and it is a lot cheaper than buying a dedicated flashgun. | |
| In camera sharpening | This is a personal preference issue. If there is no in camera sharpening selected, a small amount of Photoshop unsharp mask enhances the images for printing. This should be applied as the last step before saving and printing the final image. With my Nikon Coolpix 4500, I have now decided to select LOW in camera sharpening which appears best for soft subjects such as people and nature. For subjects with detail I then apply sharpening in Photoshop when required, often with a setting of 60 with radius of 1 pixel and a threshold level of 1. | |
| Clarity of the LCD screen in bright daylight
|
Although there has been much improvement over the years
with non reflecting screens there can still be a problem experienced in
viewing the LCD screen in bright daylight. It is
essential to be able to view close ups on the LCD monitor
rather than through the viewfinder to avoid parallax.
Having searched far and wide, a detachable viewfinder
hood from a twin lens reflex camera was procured and
utilised. This has the advantage of being collapsible and
takes up little room. It also has a built in magnifier. It is attached by means of velcro.
There are now commercial devices available from www.hoodmanusa.com which may be worth investigating. Also try www.eagleeyeuk.com. |
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| Image editing | When editing images, it is best to keep saving in the application's uncompressed format (e.g. PSD, TIFF, BMP). This will avoid repeated compression being applied. After editing is completed a compressed format can be used if required. | |
| Correcting perspective and leaning verticles | One of the really useful aspects of image manipulation is that the dreaded leaning vertical can often be corrected using perspective tools in the software. | |
| Red eye removal | Image editing software is normally provided with this feature. If not a similar effect can be achieved by making an oval selection around the eye and de-saturating to grey. |
| Back to Top |
Selecting
the camera image resolution
Increasing flash power
In camera sharpening
Clarity of the LCD screen in bright daylight
Image editing
Correcting perspective and leaning verticles
Red eye removal